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<!--Generated by Squarespace Site Server v5.11.81 (http://www.squarespace.com/) on Fri, 01 Jun 2012 20:48:29 GMT--><feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><title>Painting Pro-tips</title><subtitle>Painting Pro-tips</subtitle><id>http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/</id><link rel="alternate" type="application/xhtml+xml" href="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/"/><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/atom.xml"/><updated>2011-06-12T01:25:10Z</updated><generator uri="http://www.squarespace.com/" version="Squarespace Site Server v5.11.81 (http://www.squarespace.com/)">Squarespace</generator><entry><title>Staining cedar shakes</title><id>http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/6/11/staining-cedar-shakes.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/6/11/staining-cedar-shakes.html"/><author><name>Rob</name></author><published>2011-06-12T01:16:57Z</published><updated>2011-06-12T01:16:57Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>When staining your cedar shakes be sure to hit all the butts of the shingles at least twice. this is where most of the moisture enters the shingle and causes the most problems. It also helps to reduce the moisture from getting behind the shingle! check out this web article on how to prep and stain your cedar shakes <a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_6155752_prep-stain-cedar-shingles.html">http://www.ehow.com/how_6155752_prep-stain-cedar-shingles.html</a></p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Priming Bare wood</title><id>http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/4/25/priming-bare-wood.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/4/25/priming-bare-wood.html"/><author><name>Rob</name></author><published>2011-04-25T10:35:36Z</published><updated>2011-04-25T10:35:36Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>Remember what ever your painting project is always prime any spots of the surface that are bare down to the wood or areas that have peeled and been sanded. This is very important becauseTo get a great-looking finish coat and the beautiful, long-lasting results you expect, be sure to properly apply primer to the surfaces you plan to paint.</p>
<p>&nbsp;primers are formulated to solve typical painting problems while helping to make your finish coat smooth and uniform:</p>
<ul>
<li>Achieve a smooth, professional finish</li>
<li>Block stains, marks and odors</li>
<li>Assure adhesion</li>
<li>Speed topcoating</li>
<li>Prevent peeling</li>
<li>Attain the truest paint color in the fewest coats</li>
<li>Improve touch-up performance of the topcoat</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Premium Wall &amp; Wood Primer</strong><br />- Premium quality primer for the smoothest finish</p>
<p><strong>Multi-Purpose Latex Primer</strong><br />- General purpose whole-house primer for multiple surfaces</p>
<p><strong>Drywall Primer</strong><br />- Seals new drywall and previously painted walls for a consistent finish</p>
<p><strong>Harmony&reg; Wall Primer<br /></strong>- An environmentally responsible and low odor formula for drywall</p>
<p><strong>Pre-Wallcovering Primer</strong><br />- Primes, seals and sizes in one coat</p>
<p><strong>Multi-Purpose Oil-Based Primer</strong><br />- Versatile sealer and stain blocker, assures a uniform finish</p>
<p><strong>Adhesion Primer</strong><br />- Tightly bonds to slick and glossy surfaces</p>
<p><strong>White Pigmented Shellac Primer</strong><br />- Highest performing primer for sealing out the toughest stains and odors in one coat</p>
<p><strong>Concrete &amp; Masonry Primer</strong><br />- Seals and adheres to concrete, brick, stucco and plaster</p>
<p>The best all around primer to use is Zissner Smartprime &nbsp;<a href="http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=420">http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=420</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 150px;" src="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/storage/ZIN_SmartPrimeGallon_L.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1303728248786" alt="" /></span></span></p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>Bare wood surfaces</title><id>http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/4/3/bare-wood-surfaces.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/4/3/bare-wood-surfaces.html"/><author><name>Rob</name></author><published>2011-04-03T13:46:33Z</published><updated>2011-04-03T13:46:33Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>Pro Tip of the Week: poly on wood doors<br />When polying wood doors make sure to give them a good light sanding with 220 grit paper first including all the edges<br />then put a coat of sanding sealer on them first, very important to hit the top and bottom edges of the door because this is were any moisture gets in</p>
<p><strong><span><a onmousedown="UntrustedLink.bootstrap($(this), &quot;f7188&quot;, event, bagof(null));" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.zinsser.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=246" target="_blank">RustOleum.com</a></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/storage/safe_image.php.jpeg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1301841811607" alt="" /></span></span></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/storage/Unknown.jpeg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1301841668564" alt="" /></span></span><br /></span></strong></p>]]></content></entry><entry><title>painting interior trim</title><id>http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/3/12/painting-interior-trim.html</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/painting-pro-tips/2011/3/12/painting-interior-trim.html"/><author><name>Rob</name></author><published>2011-03-12T15:04:13Z</published><updated>2011-03-12T15:04:13Z</updated><content type="html" xml:lang="en-US"><![CDATA[<p>When painting interior trim it's all about the prep work. First make sure to wipe down and vacum all the wood. second, give all the trim a light sanding and fix any imperfections with wood fill. Third, caulk all the gaps you can see. After the caulk drys, there is a great product from white lighting called bolt quick dry this drys in 30 minutes and is &nbsp;easy to work with. then sand any repair work down to trim. Finally prime any repair or bear wood spots with zinnser cover stain. okay ready to paint.<span class="thumbnail-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><a class="offsite-link-inline" href="http://www.wlcaulk.com/products/acrylic_latex_caulks_and_sealants/bolt_quick_dry_acrylic_latex_caulk/index.html"><img src="http://www.fpseasidepainting.com/storage/thumbnails/9409157-11195938-thumbnail.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1299942935294" alt="" /></a></span></span></p>]]></content></entry></feed>
